Is Thomas Keller’s Per Se the best restaurant in the country?
I have tried, without success, on several occasions when traveling in Northern California to secure a reservation at The French Laundry in Yountville, California. This bastion of otherworldly culinary excellence has always been a goal “not yet achieved”. That is, until now. Recently I snagged a 5:30 pm reservation at the New York version – Per Se. And from what I have read there only seems to be 5:30 pm and 9:30 pm reservations available most of the time!
The setting in the Time Warner Center overlooking the southern end of Central Park is nothing short of gorgeous. Gazing out the windows as the day came to a close and the lights of the city began to twinkle we enjoyed a glass of champagne and reveled in the grandeur of our “church” and awaited the start of the “service”.
Our meal began with the much written about “Oysters and Pearls” – a “Sabayon of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and Sterling White Sturgeon Caviar. To say it was sublime would do it and the chef’s a disservice. From that starting point we sailed through some of, if not, the finest foodstuffs and preparations available in this country. Pickled Tokyo turnips, duck foie gras, crispy skinned fillet of Dorade, butter poached lobster, baked heirloom beets, Marcho Farms rib-eye of veal, compressed Kadota fig with a confit of fennel bulb, braised Romano beans and on and on. All in Keller’s signature fun and funky, jewel box-style small portions.
Over the course of 3 hours we enjoyed each and every dish that the dining staff placed in front of us along with the sommelier’s selection of wine pairings. And we were particularly pleased with the time the staff took to discuss and talk with us about the food and wine.
The desserts began to flow, which led off with Pineapple Sorbet abetted by Macadamia Nut “Nougatine”; moved through various small chocolates confections; then segued to Strawberry “Consomme” and “Frangipane Croustillante” with Lemon Curd Ice cream; and, finally ended with multiple little treats to make certain we were completely satisfied.
To say Per Se is expensive is an understatement. Is it worth it? The short answer is yes, to me; perhaps not to others. A few years ago I enjoyed a wonderful meal at Alain Ducasse at The Essex House, which at the time was the most expensive restaurant in the country. It was a great meal and I thought well worth it given the quality of food, service and ambiance. Per Se sailed past Alain Ducasse by several hundred dollars and, yet, it too was wonderful, dazzling and a truly transcendent experience – a religious experience. That is, if your church is a 3 star eatery!
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